Do you have ugly scratches on your hardwood floors? Does the sun hit them just right so accentuate them? In many cases you can make those surface level scratches go away – or at least make them less visible. Here are our best tips for hardwood floor scratch repairs that you can do yourself.
With all of the different types of flooring finishes, it is important to know which one was used on your floors so you can match them. Is your finish oil or water based? Does it have a wax coating? Is the wood varnished or stained? Is there an aluminum oxide coating? Knowing what the surface is made of is important so that you know how to start your scratch repairs. If you didn’t install the floors and aren’t sure what type of finish it has, you can check here for more details.
Before you start, make sure you clean the entire area around the scratch on your floors. You will want to remove all traces of dust, dirt and grime on the floor before you go any further in the process. Make sure you pay attention to the inside of the crack itself, which should be free of any small particles. If you have a wax layer, use a wax remover solution to clear away the way before you do the repair.
With just a little elbow grease, you can bring life back into your wood floors. A fine-grained sandpaper will buff out minor damage. First, sand the floor in the direction of the grain. You’ll need to reapply the stain that you buffed away in the process, so choose a hidden area (under a bed, in a corner or closet) to patch-test first to make sure it matches. After finding the right stain, patch test a urethane finish.
A water-based polyurethane dries quickly, with a clear and shiny finish, which is ideal for newer floors. But this could create too much contrast if floors have darkened with age. Oil-based urethanes are strong-smelling and they dry with a yellow tinge that will continue to darken over time. This may better suit the color of older floors. Just make sure your sanded area is smooth and thoroughly clean before you apply stain and then the finish.
If you have a small, single scratch that is only noticeable when you get close (like scratches from pets nails) and your floor has a relatively new finish, try a DIY home solution first. Mix equal parts apple cider vinegar and olive oil in a small cup. Slowly rub the mixture into the scratch with a soft rag. Leave it for the remainder of the day and then rub clean. This will usually take care of small, minor scratches.
Walnuts contain natural emollients and brown dyes that can repair and enhance the look of worn, scratched wood. Warm up the nut in your fingers, warming the natural oils, then rub the walnut into the floor into the worn areas using circular motions. Let the oil sit for a few minutes, then buff out with a soft cloth. Coconut oil can also help scratch marks on unfinished or freshly sanded floors. Just apply a thin layer of coconut oil on a brush or sponge and rub into the wood. Let sit for 10 minutes and then buff out with a soft cloth for rich looking wood.
A combination of olive oil and baking soda can help reduce and remove scratches from wood. First step is to vacuum your floors well and then apply baking soda with several drops of olive oil. Wait a few minutes and then gently rub with a soft sponge with the grain of the wood. Rub with a damp cloth and then dry with a towel.
For your deepest gouges in the wood, try a wood filler that can be sanded and stained, even painted. You could also use a pre-colored latex wood filler that can blend directly into your floor. This is the best option for small, deep holes that can then be filled, sanded, stained and finished. This leaves your floors looking new.
The open concept of kitchen and living rooms can make a space feel much bigger. But how do you get the same effect in a bathroom without sacrificing privacy? Start with your shower! By removing the barriers that block in a shower, you can create a seamless feel that makes your bathroom look and feel larger.
If you don’t think twice about stepping over a walk-in showers huge lip, count yourself lucky. A curbless shower allows anyone who may have trouble with balance or coordination to feel confident about entering the shower. Those using a wheelchair or other mobility aids do not have a threshold to step over a large curb and may find a curbless shower easier to enter so they can bathe more independently. The shower will grow with you, which means that as you age in your home, the shower is already outfitted to accommodate mobility aids. This means that you can potentially stay in your home longer because it is designed to meet your needs as you grow older.
One of the most significant benefits of a curbless shower is the fact that they are fully customizable. Curbless showers are installed in big or small spaces because they are designed to fit your unique area. Even if you have a small space, a curbless shower can be put in the corner so you have more room in the other areas of your bathroom. In fact, they must be customized to your space to ensure proper drainage and a sufficient splash zone. Do you like clean, modern designs, a more spa-like vibe, or customized tile work? The options are endless.
Are you annoyed with the mildew and mold growth on your shower curtain? Does it get in your way while you shower or do you forget to put it on the inside of your shower before you start the water? You not only don’t have to worry about a shower curtain or liners with a curbless shower. Not only will this help keep your shower cleaner, but it will help reduce the amount of mold and mildew buildup. This also means that you don’t have to spend your shower fighting with the curtain and liner. No shower curtain also means that your style will be on display. There is no extra barrier to block your view of the beautiful tile designs or your personal style accents.
If you are among the 35 million people that are allergic to dust mites and pet dander, you might be surprised to find that replacing your carpet with hardwood is a great way to limit your exposure to them. A home with wooden floors and rugs will contain only a tenth of the dust that a carpeted house contains.
Carpets can trap the types of fine particle matter that worsen allergies. Pollen, pet dander and other particles can find a home there and become very difficult, if near impossible to extract completely. Dusting and vacuuming can help minimize many indoor allergies, but they can also stir them up. A good way to prevent these allergens in the first place is to eliminate common breeding grounds. And flooring is one area of the home where the indoor allergies can be controlled.
Hard surfaces like hardwood, help to minimize the buildup of allergens because there are no fibers to hold on to those particles. By minimizing allergens, your quality of air indoors is already improved. Hardwood is also easier to disinfect than carpet. Using an anti-bacterial cleaner and a mop is all it takes. This just simply cannot be done with carpet.
Infants and small children are especially susceptible to the allergens that are trapped in carpet and since they spend more time crawling and playing on the floor. Hardwood floors might not be as comfortable for them when they crawl or play but ultimately better for their respiratory health. This can also be a concern if you have pets since hardwood is easier to clean and doesn’t trap the pet hair.
Parquet originally comes from the French term “parquetry,” meaning “small compartment.” It originated in France in the 17th Century, when artisans created elaborate designs by cutting and fitting small geometric pieces of wood together, one at a time, and then gluing them to the floor. Because of the skill and time required, parquet floors were initially the province of wealthy households and public buildings.
While artisans can still piece together a custom parquet floor, the vast majority of modern parquet flooring comes in square tiles, featuring strips of hardwood bonded to a mesh or thin plywood base.
Custom parquet is rarely found in residential homes today because it still requires individually cutting wood pieces and assembling them in puzzle-like fashion to form mosaics, mandalas, and other intricate designs. The few companies that specialize in custom parquet charge $20 to $45 per square foot or more, depending on the level of complexity.
Parquet flooring tiles are the product of choice for homes today—and they’re do-it-yourself-friendly. An assortment of hardwoods, including oak, chestnut, ash, and walnut are popular in these tiles, and you can also find some exotic wood species and bamboo. Parquet flooring tiles sell by the carton, in 9-inch, 12-inch, and 18-inch squares. When installed by a homeowner, parquet flooring runs $3 to $5 per square foot. Professional installation of parquet tiles will raise the cost to around $7 to $10 per square foot.
Parquet is thought to be one of the best types of hardwood floors currently on the market. Most often, parquet floors contain a mixture of at least one or more species of wood, including oak, walnut, maple, pine, and even bamboo. These pieces are glued together using strong adhesives and then placed directly onto a paper or plastic backing. Keep in mind that vinyl parquet patterns are not made of hardwood.
While there are a variety of patterns with real wood and pretty easy installation, there are also a few challenges with parquet flooring. It can be very challenging to refinish and shouldn’t be installed in basements due to moisture issues. Along the lines of moisture, parquet flooring is not suitable for humid areas either, including bathrooms and laundry rooms. You will need to consult a flooring expert before adding this type of flooring in your home.
Refinishing a parquet floor can be difficult because removing the old finish involves sanding, and wood should always be sanded with the direction of its grain to prevent cross-grain marks. Because a parquet floor features pieces of wood grain running in different directions, removing the old finish without damaging the surface of the wood beneath requires painstaking care. This should definitely be done by a professional to ensure your refinish is done correctly.
If you are in the market for hardwood flooring that will last for decades, the obvious choice will be for wood in its natural form. It’s not enough to simply just pick any hardwood species, because hardwoods can vary quite a bit in their hardness and some are actually much softer than some softwood species.
To give quantification to this issue of wood species hardness, the lumber industry created the Janka hardness scale. This standard is now widely accepted as the best means of ranking the hardness of wood. The Janka test measures the amount of force needed to drive a 0.444 inch steel ball into wood to a depth equal to half its diameter. The higher the rating, the harder the wood. There are other elements that go into how a wood species performs as a flooring material but the Janka scale will give you a good idea as to whether your wood floor will last for decades or will quickly surrender to the onslaught of dog nails and basic foot traffic.
So how do we use the Janka Scale? It runs from zero (softest) to 4,000 lbs (hardest). Woods with a low rating on the wood hardness scale are those that will dent and scratch easily. Balsa wood, for example, is extremely lightweight and used for crafts. It has one of the lowest on the scale at 100 lbs. It definitely wouldn’t be a good idea to use it for wood floors! But on the other hand, a higher score indicates that more effort is required to nail or saw the wood since it’s so hard. With a score of 3,684 lbs, one of the hardest woods is Ipe (also known as Brazilian Walnut or Lapacho). This wood is often used for decks, flooring and even furniture, especially when high shock resistance is needed. And because it is so hard, Ipe is often pre drilled for screws.